A mechanical watch is a machine with well over a hundred moving parts, some of them turning thousands of times an hour. Like any machine, it needs maintenance. The good news is that a quality watch from Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet or Cartier needs it far less often than people fear, and a properly serviced watch will outlast its owner. Here is what a sensible servicing routine looks like and why it matters to the value of your watch.

The honest answer on intervals

There is no single figure, because each maker sets its own guidance. Rolex recommends a service approximately every ten years for current models, and Patek Philippe recommends every eight to ten years. Cartier recommends having the movement checked every six years, and Audemars Piguet recommends a yearly check of timekeeping, functions and water resistance. Modern synthetic oils do last longer than the old formulas, but oils still dry out, gaskets still harden, and by the time a watch is losing time the wear has usually already happened. Waiting for a fault means paying for parts as well as labour. Vintage pieces, watches worn daily with heavy water use, and any watch showing the warning signs below are reasons to have it looked at sooner.

Signs your watch needs attention

Between services, watch for these warnings and act on them early.

Gaining or losing noticeably more time than usual, say more than a few seconds a day beyond its normal rate.
The power reserve shortening, so the watch stops overnight when it never used to.
A gritty or loose feeling when winding or setting.
Condensation or fogging under the crystal. This is urgent, as moisture corrodes a movement quickly.
A rotor you can hear rattling, or a date change that drags or jumps at the wrong time.

What actually happens in a full service

A full service is not a quick regulation. The movement is removed from the case and completely stripped down. Every component is cleaned in specialist solutions and inspected under magnification. Worn parts, commonly the mainspring and various jewels and wheels, are replaced with genuine components. The movement is reassembled, oiled at every friction point with the correct lubricants, then regulated and timed in multiple positions over several days. The case and bracelet are cleaned, gaskets and seals are replaced, and the watch is pressure tested to confirm its water resistance before it is returned. Done properly, the whole process takes a few weeks.

What it costs

Expect a full service on a Rolex sports model to run from roughly £500 to £800 through a good independent workshop, with Rolex themselves typically charging more. Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet services start higher, often £800 upwards, reflecting more complex movements and factory parts. Complications, heavy wear or water damage add to the bill. It is real money, but set against the value of the watch it is modest, and it is far cheaper than the repair bill after a neglected movement fails.

Service history protects value

When we buy watches here in Bristol, one of the first questions we ask is when the watch was last serviced. A documented service history does two things. It tells the buyer the watch has been looked after, and it removes the cost of an immediate service from the negotiation. Two identical watches can differ by hundreds of pounds at sale simply because one owner kept the receipts and the other did not. Keep every service invoice with the box and papers, and your watch becomes easier to sell and worth more when you do.

Book your watch in

If your watch is running fast, stopping early, or is due by its maker's recommended interval, have it checked before a small issue becomes an expensive one. Open Link Company arranges repairs and full servicing for Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet and Cartier from our Bristol premises at Castlemead. Servicing and repairs are carried out by the watchmaker we work with. Get in touch through our repairs and servicing page and we will give you an honest assessment and a clear quote.

Sources: Rolex, Patek Philippe, Cartier, Audemars Piguet

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